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Flexor tendon injury climbing reddit. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5.
Flexor tendon injury climbing reddit. I injured (what I believe to be) my flexor tendon in my left ring finger by catching a ledge with a 3 finger drag (other hand off the wall), when my feet cut. "Another common finger injury is flexor unit strain. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. Apr 27, 2017 · I stopped climbing about 3 weeks ago because, after 3 weeks of babying the injury and only climbing easy routes at the gym, I didn't notice any improvement. If you flex the injured finger then gently pull out on your fingertip you should feel pain along the pulley If the pain radiates into your hand or wrist then it is probably not a pulley injury and may be an injury to one of the flexor tendons Nov 14, 2022 · Now, if we were to look at a pulley injury, we might see some inflammation there as well, but if the injury is severe the obvious difference will be the increase in bowstringing, where the tendon pulls further away from the bone than it normally would because the pulley is compromised. I have this injury (jersey finger on right ring finger) and was wondering if you tape in a particular way? I buddy tape it to my middle along with some x-taping also on the middle (since now it's supporting two fingers). Sigh due to a torn flexor tendon, my climber GF has been advised by a hand specialist to stop climbing "forever. It's an overly cautious move, I know, but I feel like any more strain on my tendons and it may become permanent. Lots of them were kind of just like shrug, you won't climb again. There are 2 musculotendinous units that could be involved, the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and flexor digitorum profundus (FDP). I have been climbing 3 years, training and climbing hard for 2 years, I climb around v10 outdoors, and primarily am a boulderer. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. I held it for Nov 7, 2012 · And with good reason: While climbing is a full-body exercise, fingers make the most contact with the rock, thus taking more abuse than other limbs, especially from pockets. Now for the anecdotal stuff. The title basically explains the gist - a little background may help with the answers though. The climbing physio had really good advice and was more willing to work through a variety of ideas to help me get back to climbing. This creates a completely different problem than what we face with flexor tenosynovitis, though it causes Jan 16, 2025 · Rest, ice, splinting, and physical therapy are common treatment options. Tenosynovitis, or inflammation of the finger flexor tendon sheath (synovium), is a common overuse syndrome that climbers may experience. So what is your approach to stretching your flexor tendons for enjoying some injury-free try-hard climbing? What are the benefits/risks for each of these exercises? Tendon repairs tend to give rise to massive scar tissue formation, causing adhesions against the other tendon (either FDP or FDS) and loss of range in fingers. After the pulley heals, most people use tape on that finger to provide additional support when climbing. " Looking for a 2nd opinion. I've now waited 3 months after the re-injury and am debating risking it again. ; Abstained from climbing His injury book is great, i'll update this post tonight with some more info from his book. Unpleasant twinges of pain are felt along the length of the tendon through the finger and Apr 1, 2022 · Pain is typically localized over the pulley and tends to be worse along the sides of your finger. A2 Pulley Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. For 4 weeks, every day I. These are tendon strains which often occur in the ring finger when using two or three finger, open handed holds. . It doesn't hurt when I climb easy routes as long as I don't grip too hard. Had a similar ring finger flexor strain a few years back. I had tendon and wrist issues from bouldering that I re-injured after waiting a month to climb again. Jul 26, 2021 · In this video we'll discuss the injuries and rehab activities associated with the flexor digitorum profundus, or FDP. Every injury can be such a large range of things from muscle imbalance to soft tissue damage to a flexor tendon tear and pain in the hand doesn't always indicate an issue in the hand, it could be an injury of tendons in the arm or vice versa. Treatment for flexor tendon tear The flexor tendons that run underneath the pulleys can also tear or stretch when climbing. The pain only occurred in open handed grips and actually hurt the most in the middle of my arm where the strain really occured. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. INJURIES The three finger injuries that climbers frequently experience are an A2 pulley strain or rupture, a flexor tendon tear, or a collateral ligament strain. Once you rupture a repaired tendon, the nature of the scarring and the weakness inherent, and the perforated edges of the old tendon mean it can't be repaired again. We’ll start with relevant anatomy, then move on to internal risk factors, causes of injury, testing and symptoms, and finally how to heal and retrain to get you back to sending! I saw a whole host of other people, many of whom didn't really understand climbing related injuries and required strengths. Dec 9, 2024 · Prevent and recover from flexor tendon injury climbing with expert tips on causes, symptoms, prevention strategies, and effective treatment options. I took 2 months off from climbing and focused on cardio and core training and Anyone else experienced a finger injury with no pain on an active hold but pain upon touch/pressure to the area? I've been climbing for a long time, work as a setter and coach, and like to think I'm rather versed in training/rehab, but this latest "injury" has me absolutely stumped, so here I am. I remember pulling hard on something as if crimping it was just fine, but holding my nalgene to get a drink of water was impossible. zaqjnhtaemsvohkplidemjxebhwanqqtodzcacaipijmseyrvomg